Current Time In India? It's Kerala Time, My Friends!

By Mitchell Jones


You may be an Indian ex-pat looking to return a bit for some flavor of home or an aspiring tourist anxious to experience the magic that is India. In either case, you want to know where the hottest place to be is.

Hands down, my friend (as they say in India), you have to get to Kerala. The heydays of Katmandu and Goa have come and gone. Unless you want to be a trophy of irony, forget them. Mumbai and Delhi are certainly happening, but the breakneck hectic surge of humanity is a bit much for many

No, if you want a visit to India that gives you the top experience, in a chilled atmosphere, immersed in natural beauty, but without sacrificing cultural vibrancy, the current time in India is Kerala time! This hot Indian up-and-comer of a destination stretches along the south-western corner of the country. (I like to tell people, if they can conjure up an image of where Chile is in South America, they can figure out where Kerala is in India). This area has all you could ask for in your Indian vacation.

Consider these features:

Let's start with Kochi. It's sometimes still called Cochin on older maps. But, by whatever name, the commercial center of Kerala is as happening as it is beautiful. It sits engagingly at the crossroads of some of Kerala's famous backwaters. The town spreads out over the northern end of a peninsula, several islands and the corresponding mainland. Kochi's ubiquitous ferries ply the waterways of the city's exquisite natural harbor. Personal experience allows me to testify that dolphins sometimes swim so close to the low slung ferries that you can, without exaggeration, simply reach over and pet them, right there in the water. It's a memory that has stuck with me my whole life.

The built environment also nicely complements the natural setting. Kochi has a history of diverse colonization, including a century and a half under the Portuguese. Whatever you think of colonialism in principle, this rich experience of cultural crossroads has left the city with a pretty amazing architectural legacy.

For all the idyllic beauty, though, if you're looking for action, Kochi won't let you down. There is a thriving nightlife with a wide range of great restaurants, representing the cuisine of diverse Indian regions as well as international fare. After dinner you have a choice of a variety of cafes, including artsy joints for the so inclined, as well as discos and pubs to party the night away.

And when you feel you're big city maxed-out, don't despair, Kerala has only begun to reveal its treasures. If you still, though, want some adventure that keeps you on the move, the splendid Kerala backwaters may be just your thing. Composed of lagoons and lakes that run parallel to what, in a more prosaic time, was called the Malabar Coast, they are connected into a vast backwater network through a great number of canals and rivers.

There's just tons of stuff to do and explore in these backwaters: I'll only mention a couple options, here. I strongly recommend getting to Alappuzha (still sometime called Alleppey). It is the central town of the backwaters and once was a major trading post. It is still a beautiful and vibrant spot to visit. Among its charms are the many canals that run through the town, earning it the nickname of Venice of the East.

The other really popular backwater adventure is to book passage on one of the kettuvallams, or Kerala houseboats. About 2000 of these kettuvallams make their way through the Kerala backwaters. Originally built to be grain barges, the kettuvallams have since been converted into what might be best described as floating cottages. Their thatched roofs enclose a comfy sleeping area and usually a Western style inboard toilet. Part of the boat is converted into an outdoor deck, perfect for viewing the scenery, watching the sunset and eating the Kerala-style meals prepared by the crew.

But, for those who just want to lounge on the beach, sip a cool drink and listen to the waves, Kerala has so much to offer as well. We'll only mention one absolute gem, here. Varkala is a chill-out delight, but largely free of the Western hippies and ravers that are so prevalent in other similar areas of west coast India.

The lush tropical coastline and exquisite beach is punctuated by the geologically unique cliffs around which the seaside village is located. There is a series of small shops - stretching over a kilometer - that run along the top edge of the cliffs. There are so many lovely places to simultaneously feed the palate, the eyes and the soul, that this is a location that has to be seen to be believed. (To get some fleeting sense of the delights, check out the video at our post: The Current Time in India is Varkala Time!)

And if you're so hard to please that even all that isn't quite enough (and you actually do plan on leaving the beach for more than a delicious seafood lunch), Varkala has a 2000 year old temple, which is an important Vaishnavaite shrine. Plus, it is a major center of Ayurvedic medicine. Heck, it even has an Ayurvedic hospital! Could you really ask for more?

There are international flights into Kochi and the Kerala capital city of Thiruvananthapuram (about 32 miles, or 50 km) from Varkala. But, if you really want to make an adventure of it and have time on your side, we strongly recommend flying into the even better served Mumbai airport. And, after the requisite visit to Bollywood, hop on the astounding Konkan railway down the west coast. When I first started going to India in the 1970s this train didn't exist. What a great benefit and blessing it has been since 1998.

The bottom line is simple enough. However you decide to make your way, what matters is that you get yourself to Kerala. Inevitably the popularity of a location usually winds up destroying the very charms that made it popular in the first place. Great locations do not stay so forever. Right now, Kerala is in its full glory. The current time in India is, indeed, Kerala time! Don't miss it.




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