Out on the fringes of Europe, nearly as far as you can go southwest and still be in Europe - without falling off into the Atlantic - Lisbon is often overlooked among those who presume to rank the best European cities. Yes, it lacks the iconic landmarks; its cuisine and wine are often considered second fiddle; and it just doesn't have that cool pizzazz factor, like a Paris, Rome or Berlin.
Well, all I say to that is, oh happy days! I first came to Lisbon in 1975 and have been getting back whenever I could ever since. Of all the joys of this amazing town, one of the most pleasant is the remarkable dearth of tourists. Though, I'll concede, having the almost perfect climate ain't too shabby, either.
It is among - if not - the most crime-free capital cities in Europe. It's a walker's town, despite all the winding hills, with their sudden, stunning vistas as you come around corners.
The food may not be as famous as Greek, Italian or French, but it is delicious. And if you love sea food you'll be in heaven. And don't underestimate the wine. For some reason the standard exported fare isn't so great. The wine in Portugal, though, is a delight. The coffee is fantastic, too. Lisbon should be famous for its cafes!
For those overly concerned about such matters, fret not, Lisbon is well appointed with all the standard old European amenities: the cathedrals, museums, galleries, grand squares and stunning architecture. And, if you want to hit the beach, a hop-skip-and-a-jump south brings you to Costa da Caparica, where you'll find no less than nineteen ruggedly beautiful, sandy beaches. A quaint little railway travels their length, dropping sun worshipers at the beach of their choice. (Try doing that in Vienna or Paris.)
Lisbon is a wonderful place to visit. However, I would particularly recommend it to those considering longer stays. If you have the option of a professional sabbatical, a longer vacation that allows you to stay put and learn the rhythms of a place, the ex-pat life, or if you want to write your great novel and need an inspirational getaway, you can't beat Lisbon.
Compared to the rest of Europe it is - as it has been since I started going - quite a bit less expensive. It is more expensive than it was back in the 70s, but in equivalent dollars not as much more as you might think.
Should you have the wisdom to take my advice and consider an extended sojourn in Lisbon it will be helpful to be familiar with the neighborhoods. You do after all want to choose the one that will provide you the best experience, in tune with your own personal needs and moods. Below, check out some of my favorite ones.
Alfama is the legacy of the original fishing village out of which Lisbon grew. It continues to maintain that village sensibility. With its charming, winding medieval streets, the castle always up behind you and the great views over the water, the place oozes character. A lot of the housing stock is rundown, but there are more and more nice reno jobs appearing; you'll get them for a far better price in Alfama.
If you're a partier and or a general purpose bohemian, Bairro Alto is likely the spot for you. It's packed full of characters with character, loads of popular restaurants, wine bars, dance clubs and all manner of night life. It's an exciting place to be and an exciting place to live, if it's your speed. If though you need quiet to sleep, it may not be the right choice. If you like the vibe of the place, though, you might try the Bica and Santa Catarina neighborhoods down the hill a ways: the same feel, but less hectic.
A bit further north and away from the action, but that much more peaceful as a result, is the Principe Real neighborhood. Its reputation long informed by the prevalence of antique shops and gay bars, Principe Real has gone through a major transformation in recent years as large numbers of hip, young professionals have moved in. This has given an area that was already very pleasant a lot more diversity and cache. The rental prices are on the higher side, but if you enjoy getting away from the urban hubbub, while still being conveniently central to things, it is a price worth paying to enjoy the neighborhood's lush gardens and charming mansions.
Another spot with higher prices but oozing charm and character is Santos. It is situated right along the riverside, giving it oodles of cache. It has become a bit of a design hub in Lisbon. That shouldn't intrude much though on your enjoyment of this peaceful residential area with its very good quality housing.
So there you have some quiet choices and some happening ones. You have to decide which better suits you. Whatever your preference, though, Lisbon has it. And I can't urge you enough, if you have the chance, don't miss out on what is still one of the most affordable and beautiful gems among the best European cities.
Well, all I say to that is, oh happy days! I first came to Lisbon in 1975 and have been getting back whenever I could ever since. Of all the joys of this amazing town, one of the most pleasant is the remarkable dearth of tourists. Though, I'll concede, having the almost perfect climate ain't too shabby, either.
It is among - if not - the most crime-free capital cities in Europe. It's a walker's town, despite all the winding hills, with their sudden, stunning vistas as you come around corners.
The food may not be as famous as Greek, Italian or French, but it is delicious. And if you love sea food you'll be in heaven. And don't underestimate the wine. For some reason the standard exported fare isn't so great. The wine in Portugal, though, is a delight. The coffee is fantastic, too. Lisbon should be famous for its cafes!
For those overly concerned about such matters, fret not, Lisbon is well appointed with all the standard old European amenities: the cathedrals, museums, galleries, grand squares and stunning architecture. And, if you want to hit the beach, a hop-skip-and-a-jump south brings you to Costa da Caparica, where you'll find no less than nineteen ruggedly beautiful, sandy beaches. A quaint little railway travels their length, dropping sun worshipers at the beach of their choice. (Try doing that in Vienna or Paris.)
Lisbon is a wonderful place to visit. However, I would particularly recommend it to those considering longer stays. If you have the option of a professional sabbatical, a longer vacation that allows you to stay put and learn the rhythms of a place, the ex-pat life, or if you want to write your great novel and need an inspirational getaway, you can't beat Lisbon.
Compared to the rest of Europe it is - as it has been since I started going - quite a bit less expensive. It is more expensive than it was back in the 70s, but in equivalent dollars not as much more as you might think.
Should you have the wisdom to take my advice and consider an extended sojourn in Lisbon it will be helpful to be familiar with the neighborhoods. You do after all want to choose the one that will provide you the best experience, in tune with your own personal needs and moods. Below, check out some of my favorite ones.
Alfama is the legacy of the original fishing village out of which Lisbon grew. It continues to maintain that village sensibility. With its charming, winding medieval streets, the castle always up behind you and the great views over the water, the place oozes character. A lot of the housing stock is rundown, but there are more and more nice reno jobs appearing; you'll get them for a far better price in Alfama.
If you're a partier and or a general purpose bohemian, Bairro Alto is likely the spot for you. It's packed full of characters with character, loads of popular restaurants, wine bars, dance clubs and all manner of night life. It's an exciting place to be and an exciting place to live, if it's your speed. If though you need quiet to sleep, it may not be the right choice. If you like the vibe of the place, though, you might try the Bica and Santa Catarina neighborhoods down the hill a ways: the same feel, but less hectic.
A bit further north and away from the action, but that much more peaceful as a result, is the Principe Real neighborhood. Its reputation long informed by the prevalence of antique shops and gay bars, Principe Real has gone through a major transformation in recent years as large numbers of hip, young professionals have moved in. This has given an area that was already very pleasant a lot more diversity and cache. The rental prices are on the higher side, but if you enjoy getting away from the urban hubbub, while still being conveniently central to things, it is a price worth paying to enjoy the neighborhood's lush gardens and charming mansions.
Another spot with higher prices but oozing charm and character is Santos. It is situated right along the riverside, giving it oodles of cache. It has become a bit of a design hub in Lisbon. That shouldn't intrude much though on your enjoyment of this peaceful residential area with its very good quality housing.
So there you have some quiet choices and some happening ones. You have to decide which better suits you. Whatever your preference, though, Lisbon has it. And I can't urge you enough, if you have the chance, don't miss out on what is still one of the most affordable and beautiful gems among the best European cities.
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